Peptides

What are peptides and what do they do?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. Cosmetic peptides are grouped by intended action. Signal peptides, such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, mimic fragments of collagen and are designed to prompt fibroblasts to produce more matrix. Carrier peptides, such as copper tripeptide-1, deliver trace elements involved in wound repair. Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, such as acetyl hexapeptide-8, are designed to reduce muscle contraction signals, although their effect is far milder than injected botulinum toxin. Many peptides are attached to fatty acids to improve penetration. They are generally gentle, which makes them useful for sensitive skin that does not tolerate retinoids. [1]

What does the evidence show?

A systematic review of peptides marketed to stimulate collagen found that many had little or no published clinical testing, and those tested were often studied in small, short, manufacturer-funded trials. More recent meta-analyses suggest modest improvements in wrinkles and elasticity, mainly with combined formulations. Laboratory data are stronger than clinical data. Peptides are a gentle supporting option, with the effect varying greatly by specific peptide and product.

Who should avoid peptides?

Peptides are usually well tolerated. Anyone with a history of reactions to cosmetic products should patch test first, as other formula ingredients may irritate. Copper peptides may not suit people with copper sensitivity. Peptides are not a substitute for medical treatment of skin conditions, and expectations should be modest.

Are peptides available in Singapore?

Peptides are common cosmetic ingredients in serums and creams sold in Singapore. Cosmetic products are notified to the Health Sciences Authority rather than individually approved, so peptide type and concentration vary and are often not disclosed. Injectable peptide products are a different category and should only be discussed with a doctor.

If a dark patch, breakout or irritation is not responding to what you are using, the next step is a diagnosis rather than another product. See the Skin A–Z library for related ingredients.